Solitude on Spanish Point

Maeve Tynan

Spanish Point is located near Milltown Malbay, a colorful little town in County Clare. This seaside resort, not far from Shannon Airport, is more famous for what it doesn’t have than what it has. There are no amusement arcades, no promenade and no boardwalk. You could never get a boat into the raging surf here, and if you plan on sunbathing, it's advisable to pack a very good windbreaker. The only shelter you'l find from the wind is behind the sand dunes.
It’s no surprise that you won’t find masses of tourists here. No one will try to sell you anything and there won’t be anything for the kids to buy, apart from a fishing net or an ice cream at one nearby shop. To me, it’s the most beautiful place on earth.

As inviting as the Atlantic looks here, swimmers need to be a bit selective about where they jump in (the area left of the Black Rock is not recommended, as the currents are too strong). The steady stream of pounding Atlantic waves draws a stream of dedicated surfers all year round.

Past Disaster
This scenic, relaxed spot happens to be named for one of the worst seagoing disasters ever off the Irish coast. In 1588, the Spanish Armada was fleeing from waters off Scotland back to Spain, via the west coast of Ireland. Pursued by British warships, the Spanish lost a number of ships in battles or storms all the way from Antrim in Northern Ireland down to Blasket Sound in Kerry. In September of that year, two Spanish ships went down in a storm off what’s now Spanish Point. Over 1,000 lives were lost. One of the ships supposedly lies off nearby Mutton Island, though it’s never been found. (By the way, the deserted island is for sale. For just $1.8 million US, it can be yours!)

Locals say that many of the sailors from the Armada were buried in a mass grave among the sand dunes of Spanish Point. Hard evidence of them has never been found, but a popular legend says that some of the Spanish were taken in by local women, who shielded them from the English. The “Black Irish,” people in Ireland who have very distinct black hair and swarthy skin, are said to be descendents of the Armada’s survivors. I have no idea if this is true, but I can attest to the fact that there are many black-haired, swarthy skinned people in this area!

Marble baths & music
There’s no shortage of accommodation in the area. One favorite is a lovely three bedroom self-catering cottage known as Granny’s Cottage (contact Anne at 011 353 65 7071 269), with a great view of the beach. A new guesthouse and restaurant, The Admiralty Lodge, won the prestigious “Georgina Campbell Best Newcomer” award for 2005. (Ms. Campbell publishes a well-known guide of places to eat and stay in Ireland. Visit www.ireland-guide.com.) The rooms here are tastefully appointed with everything from four-poster beds and marble bathrooms to flat screen TVs. The menu includes many tempting seafood dishes with desserts presenting “an agony of choice.” Phone: 011 353 65 7 085007.

Willy week
If you’re looking for musical pleasures, make a visit here in July. The Willie Clancy Festival in July in Milltown Malbay is fantastic. Willie Clancy was a whistle player, flute player and singer, who was also renowned for his mastery of the Uillean pipes. The summer sessions he ran between 1957 and his death in 1973 were hugely popular. Willy himself was the main attraction. The festival continues today with not just music, but all sorts of singing and dancing classes. In the daytime almost every house seems to be converted into a musical classroom as Irish and foreign students gather to learn their instruments. Swarms of people move in for the weeklong fest. Be aware, however, that it can be a bit hectic, given the large crowds.

After “Willie week,” the whole area returns to its normal state. You can walk Spanish Point practically alone, with the wind providing musical accompaniment.

Maeve Tynan lives in Limerick